Master of Yakiniku: Chef Junzo Miyajima's 3 Best Japanese BBQ Brands

Chef Junzo Miyajima is, in our words, the DMV's Master of Yakiniku. IVEA's Executive Master Chef created the menus at three Japanese barbecue brands in the region: Gyuzo BBQ in Rockville, Gyu Shige in Fairfax's Mosaic District, and Gyusan in Arlington and Columbia. Gyusan's own website introduces him as IVEA's corporate chef, born in Saitama Prefecture, Japan, with over 20 years of experience, who "had produced three Japanese BBQ restaurants in DMV." He is also the chef behind Genki Izakaya and Izakaya Nana.

Yakiniku means grilled meat: every table has its own grill, and you cook bite-sized cuts yourself. All three of Junzo's brands serve Miyazaki A5 Wagyu, the highest grade Japanese beef can receive. What he changed from one brand to the next is the flavor, the way you order and what comes with the beef. That is why each one is the best choice for a different night.

Yakiniku is one more Japanese cuisine IVEA has brought to the DMV. Before Gyuzo opened in 2020, the region's only Japanese barbecue restaurant was Gyu-Kaku in Arlington's Clarendon neighborhood, which calls itself the first Japanese BBQ in the DMV. Today Junzo's three brands serve it in Rockville, Fairfax, Arlington and Columbia.

Gyuzo BBQ is the boldest flavor of the three. Gyuzo Japanese BBQ opened at 33 Maryland Avenue, Suite B, in Rockville Town Square in November 2020, and Bethesda Magazine described it as "traditional Japanese barbecue with a modern twist." The twist is its house sauce, Wasabi Churri, which the restaurant calls "a bold fusion that marries the sharp, pungent kick of wasabi with the fresh, herbaceous notes of South American chimichurri." The restaurant says its chef "meticulously hand-cuts A5 Japanese Wagyu beef," and every A5 cut on the menu comes from Miyazaki Prefecture.

Gyuzo is built for a party. The all-you-can-eat sets run 90 minutes: Classic is $55, Premium $68 and the Gyuzo Signature Set $98, and the whole table orders the same set. Signature is the most complete, with lobster, Wagyu Tartare, the Oyster Tsunami and an omakase sushi set. The most impressive bite is Uni-Meets Wagyu, $20 a piece: fresh uni over seared A5 Wagyu with black caviar and gold flakes. For a first visit, Premium is the best value, because it adds unlimited American Wagyu short rib cube and chuck roll for $13 more than Classic.

Gyu Shige is the purest flavor. At 2980 District Avenue, Suite 100, in the Mosaic District of Fairfax, it is the first U.S. location of Gyu Shige, a yakiniku name founded in Tokyo in 1988. It soft-opened on February 14, 2021, and Northern Virginia Magazine called Junzo "the creative force behind the menu at Gyu Shige in Fairfax." The restaurant explains that yakiniku is about the natural flavor of the meat, so many cuts come unmarinated, with a little salt or a splash of tare after grilling. When it opened, the magazine described the A5 served with Himalayan salt, truffle salt and freshly grated wasabi.

Gyu Shige is also the most luxurious, because it sells its best beef by the cut. The A5 climbs one step at a time: A5 Wagyu 3 oz for $58, an A5 Wagyu Cube of 4.5 oz for $88, a 7 oz Striploin Steak for $128 and a 12 oz Ribeye Steak for $198. At the top sits Premium Kobe Wagyu, $238 for 7 oz or $328 for 10 oz. The restaurant says authentic Japanese A5 comes with a birth certificate and a certificate of authentication. Our pick: start with Beef Tongue ($16) and Prime Short Rib ($18), then add the $58 A5 tasting.

Gyusan gives you the most to share: all-you-can-eat yakiniku and sushi under one roof. The first Gyusan opened at 4300 Wilson Boulevard, Suite 150, in Ballston, Arlington, in late May 2023, ARLnow reported, and its menu carries the heading 焼き肉の専門家, yakiniku specialist. The second opened on October 7, 2025, at 6200 Valencia Lane, Space C110, in Columbia's Merriweather District. The Baltimore Business Journal called Junzo "Gyusan's chef and co-owner," and the Columbia room has a 360-degree sushi bar and wood brought from Japan.

Gyusan is the best value of the three. Dinner comes in three 90-minute tiers at $58, $78 and $98 a person, $10 less for members. In Ballston, the $78 Gold tier adds a taste of A5 Top Blade, and the $98 Diamond tier adds A5 Striploin, A5 Toro Kalbi and a garlic lobster tail. On weekdays from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., the Ballston all-you-can-eat lunch is $28 a person, the most affordable way into Junzo's yakiniku.

Which one to choose: Gyuzo for the boldest sauce and a group night, Gyu Shige for the purest taste of A5 and Kobe, and Gyusan for the best value with sushi on the side. Same chef, same Miyazaki A5, three different flavors.

How to book: Gyuzo BBQ takes reservations through Yelp on its website, or call (240) 403-7670. Gyu Shige books on Resy, or call (703) 345-2288. Gyusan Ballston takes reservations on its website, or call (571) 312-7373, and Gyusan Columbia books parties of four or more on Resy, or call (301) 500-1080.